Family Day at the Aquarium of the Bay
Family day in San Francisco, and the whole plan was Aquarium of the Bay at Pier 39, down where the Embarcadero meets Beach Street. It's not a huge place — more than 24,000 animals but nearly all of them local, pulled from the bay and the water just outside the Golden Gate, which turns out to be a better hook than exotic would have been.
Our daughter parked herself at the big tanks with both hands flat on the glass. A silver school of anchovies wheeled past over kelp and starfish, hundreds of them moving as one thing, and in another tank a fish came right up to her face and just hung there. At one point a diver in a full mask dropped into a tank trailing a red-and-yellow hose and worked along the rocks, which held her attention longer than any of the fish did.
Her mother lifted her up to see into the higher tanks, and the wide-eyed face she made at one of them lasted the rest of the visit. On the way out she found a bronze tortoise, life size, and hugged it around the shell until we peeled her off.