A Few Days Away in Calistoga
A few days away in Calistoga, up at the top end of Napa Valley — a town of about five thousand that Sam Brannan founded as a health spa in 1859, and it still trades on hot springs and mud baths. The hotel had a small round soaking pool behind an iron fence, and we sat out on the patio with a glass of wine before going anywhere, a vase of dahlias and peach roses back in the room.
In town that evening, Lovina had a CLOSED placard hanging right under its GREAT FOOD marquee while the patio behind it was full of people eating dinner under umbrellas. We walked on past Pacifico with its string lights and flags, and past a big heart made of red bulbs strung up against the sky, which demanded a stop.
Also out to a winery among the vines — vineyard rows fenced in white boards along the road on the drive in, and at the tasting spot itself, potted roses and geraniums capping the end of every row, a stone fountain running in the middle of the dirt.