A Few Sunny Days Along Utrecht's Canals

Utrecht runs its canals on two levels, which took a minute to understand from the street: you're up top with the bikes and shop fronts, and a full story below, the old wharfs hold restaurant terraces right at the water. We walked the Oudegracht most of the morning while kayakers threaded between the terraces under the bridges. Umbrellas the whole length of the far wharf, every table full by noon.

From there it's a short cut over to the Dom Church, where the tower — the tallest church tower in the country — is currently wrapped in scaffolding top to bottom. The church itself made up for it, buttresses and gargoyles stacked overhead until my neck gave out.

Farther down the canal the brick houses give way here and there to newer builds — one all copper panels and glass wedged right into the old row, a guy out front watering his plants. We passed Winkel van Sinkel on the way back, statues up on the facade, flower boxes along the railing.

Ended at a small harbor outside the city where a yellow bike ferry, Fietsboot II, was pulling up to the dock with the Dutch flag off the back.