Thanksgiving Gathering in Truckee

Thanksgiving at the house in Truckee, and the day ran on two tracks: a breakfast casserole out of the oven in the morning — bacon and cheese over the top, eaten off the stovetop more or less — and then the turkey, which went on the rotisserie out on the grill and turned there most of the afternoon. Skin came out dark and blistered, foil underneath catching the drippings.

The table was set for eight before anyone got dressed: the green pumpkin tureen in the middle, little real pumpkins around it, feathers tucked into every napkin, mismatched colored goblets at each place.

By dinner it was a buffet off the kitchen island — the turkey carved onto one big platter, mashed potatoes in the pumpkin bowl, squash, a stuffing dish with someone's name pressed into the glass. The girls went through first while the grandfather waited his turn, candles already lit at the table behind them.