A Day at the LA County Arboretum
The Arboretum in Arcadia was the whole point of driving down — 127 acres on the old Rancho Santa Anita, open to the public since January 1955, and a long way in every sense from Truckee in July. Started at the Baldwin Avenue entrance, where the sign is a thicket of teal wooden blades, then made for the Queen Anne Cottage, which appears through the trees with its cupola surrounded by fan palms twice its height.
From there the rose garden, where a circle of white benches sits under a pergola buried in pink climbers, and every trunk of palm above it leans a different direction. Then the plumeria collection, which took longer than planned — the same flower in pink, white-and-yellow, and an orange one edged in red, cluster after cluster.
The collections here include rare and endangered species from around the world, and it shows once you leave the flower beds. Past a rock waterfall the ground goes dry and the plants get strange: striped cordylines standing on shaggy trunks, and behind a smooth bottle-trunked tree, a wall of spiny green arms reaching up like something out of Madagascar, which it probably was.