November Weekend in Mendocino
A November weekend on the coast, a long haul over from Truckee for it, and Mendocino turns out to be a town you can walk end to end before lunch. The MacCallum House with its gingerbread trim and iron cresting sits a block from its own weathered barn, and the old church on Ukiah Street is now Corners of the Mouth, a natural foods collective since 1975, rainbow painted into the steeple.
The town is odd that way — the state park doesn't sit next to it, it surrounds it. Mendocino Headlands, 2,328 acres set aside in 1974, four miles of shoreline wrapping the bluffs. We followed the trail out past the sea stacks, one big flat-topped island with a few trees clinging to it, then dropped down to the beach.
The tide was well out, so the rock shelves were exposed — red seaweed everywhere, pools standing between ridges of shell gravel. Spent longer down there than planned.
On the way back, an apple tree still hung with red fruit in the middle of November. Nobody seemed to be picking them.