Rainbows and an Aerial Look at Kauai
Started slow in Poipu — two drinks at an oceanside table, a cucumber wheel and an orchid riding the tall one, tiki torches out on the point past the hedge. Somewhere between the first sip and the last, a squall moved through offshore and left a rainbow planted in the water. We chased it up the coast to Spouting Horn, where it held for a good while over the surf, the blowhole huffing spray out of the lava shelf below us.
The afternoon was the helicopter. Lifted off past Nawiliwili — a cruise ship parked at the harbor, the Huleia winding brown through the green below — then around to the Nā Pali side, which you can't reach by road at all. Trail, boat, or this. The cliffs run up to something like 4,000 feet and just drop, ridge after fluted ridge, straight into the water. Kalalau Beach sat at the bottom of it with nobody on it. The Kalalau Trail covers eleven miles of that coast on foot; from the air it took minutes, which felt a little like cheating.